So since we have had relatively mild weather here in the North East part of the USA work has moved forward on Autumn Dream.
As previously noted the cutlass bearing was removed by brute force. You can see how it looked in the photo after removal. This should be a nice tube 2 inches in outside diameter and six inches long. Not a slit tube with the crap beat out of it!
Here you see the shaft strut with the bearing removed.
Now with the new bearing and shaft back in place.
The more observant among you will have noticed that there are also two new set screws in the strut. Most struts have set screws in them to keep the cutlass bearing from twisting with the shaft or spinning out of the strut entirely while underway. On Autumn Dream this strut is actually tapered a little bit to hold the bearing in place. The bearing in all cases is press fit into the strut but on Autumn Dream the press fit in the tapered strut is what held the bearing in place. As Autumn Dream is not a new boat and when I removed the cutlass bearing from the strut I could see some signs of previous replacements being done I decide to drill two holes, tap them and install set screws as a precaution.
When installing the new bearing I refrigerated the bearing to -2F before installing and lubricated both the bearing and the strut with Ivory soap. I then pressed the bearing into the strut. Since the bearing was cold and as a result of freezing slightly smaller in size than the actual strut opening it went in reasonably easy. Now reasonably easy is to say that I fabricated a “press” (maybe a “pull” is a better descriptor) out of 3/4″ threaded rod and heavy 2″ washers and nuts. I then put the rod through the strut and the bearing and started pulled the bearing into the strut by tightening the two nuts on the threaded rod. If your interested you can see the whole process at this great website where I found all the information to get this job done! http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_a_cutlass Thank you Compass Marine for a great website with exceptionally informative articles that show you how to do some of the necessary boat work yourself! If I had to pay to get this done in my boats case your talking minimal cost amount of about $1000.00 USD mostly in labor! The actual part is about $100.00.
So now that the cutlass bearing is complete I can move forward and return the transmission to the boat, Fill the transmission with ATF fluid, install the stuffing box, repack the stuffing box and attach the shaft to the transmission and the drive train work will be complete.
In addition to the drive train work I have managed to reinstall the fresh water cooling pump and a new Thermostat. The FWCP is located in the middle of the photo below with a duel belt pulley on it. The thermostat is under the white flange on top of the green bit with a wire coming out of it. Next I need to get some new hoses and complete the re-installation of the boats cooling system. So new cooling hoses, re-install heat exchange, coolant tank, raw water pump, alternator and finally replace all the drive belts.
However the weather turned colder and whiter overnight. I guess it had to come. So until it gets above freezing again work will be a hold for a bit.
Next installment should be an update on the progress of work on the dinghy. Both Beth and I are doing work on that front! Beth is making a beautiful dinghy cover from scratch and I’ve been doing a bit of fiberglass and epoxy work.